At Circus World in Baraboo, the sights and sounds evoke the golden age of the circus. Its presence is loud and colorful. In the late 1800s, traveling performers rode ornate wagons through towns to promote the big show.
Julie Parkinson, Circus World's new executive director, says it was an elaborate form of advertisement.
"Everyone knew it was circus day," Parkinson says. "All the shops were closed and everyone would sort of follow the parade on to the showgrounds to see the show."
Today, the Wisconsin Historical Society operates the site. Circus World is home to several national landmarks, hundreds of artifacts and wagons, and seasonal live performances. Parkinson explained, the Ringling Bros. were some of the most influential circus owners and performers. Their roots were here in Wisconsin.
"They started their circus here in 1888 and Baraboo was their hometown," she says. "It became their winter quarters, which just means they would go out with their circus in the spring and come back in the fall. Then they would bring all of their animals and wagons and equipment and everything and just regroup here over the winters to get ready for the spring show."
To document that history, the museum first opened in 1959. Parkinson shared her family ties to Circus World.
"In 1965 my grandfather, Robert L. Parkinson, was recruited to begin the library and research center here because the museum was acquiring all of these artifacts," she says. "A little bit later down the road in 1985 my dad became director of the Circus World Museum and he held that position for 18 years."
Parkinson also performed with the circus starting at age 10 with her sister.
"Later, I performed with Ringling Bros. and a few other shows. Basically, I’ve been gone for 23 years. Now, I’m returning back to my roots and making the full circle as executive director and third generation in my family."
Before we see the day's Big Top show, Parkinson leads us to a noisy corner of the grounds where workers are excavating.
"This is what we call Ringlingville," she explains. "These buildings here along Water Street are original buildings that were from the Ringling Bros. winter quarters. So this was way before they combined forces with Barnum & Bailey circus. We’re walking by the ring barn right now. It was built in 1901. The really cool thing is all of these buildings are on track to be renovated."
Excavation started this summer and the renovations will finish next year. That’s not the only restoration happening at Circus World. The more than 200 wagons in Baraboo account for the largest circus wagon collection in the world.
Inside the wagon restoration center, Parkinson points to a black and white photo of a bustling workshop.
"This is a picture of wagon restoration probably around the turn of the century," Parkinson says. "There were so many people working on so many wagons, which is what I would love to do today, to really maintain the collection."
At the wagon pavilion, rows of them are on display, including the bell wagon, which is believed to be the only remaining one in existence. Just a handful of people know how to play it.
A wagon with chipped white paint and dull gold coloring sits in the pavilion. It’s called the swan band wagon. Parkinson explains it will serve as the catalyst for a resurgence in wagon restoration.
"This will be eventually done completely in gold leaf," Parkinson says. "We’re guessing, to restore the whole wagon, it’ll be a two-to-three-year process and right now we’re looking at just under $200,000 to restore it."
The day’s Big Top Circus show is about to begin. As we approach a large red and white tent, the sounds of crowd chatter and music grow louder. Inside, the roof of the tent is dark like a clear midnight sky.
"We want to transport people to a different place where they forget their every day stresses. Here in this tent we have the lighting and the sound and you’re smelling the popcorn. It’s just an attack on all of your senses — that’s what we hope. The show’s about to begin now in just a minute."
It starts with the acrobatic swing act. Acrobats use the swing’s momentum to flip high through the air. A net catches them after a long descent.
Later, a horse-riding duo perform tricks. One of them takes control of both horses. He stands with one foot on each saddle as the animals move in tandem. With one hand holding the reins, he guides his partner up to his shoulders where she briefly stands as they wave to the crowd.
For the finale, the audience looks up at a tightrope. A motorcycle balancing on the rope is connected to an acrobat below. The pair entertain the crowd as they perform stunts above their heads.
After the show, Parkinson shared her vision for the future of Circus World.
"You know, really, the sky’s the limit how we continue that," says Parkinson. "Whether it’s creating a circus school down the road, continuing to try to build new exhibits and be part of the community and educate the community of just what a gem we have here."
For Parkinson, the golden age of the circus is alive and well in Baraboo.
